Why the rise of the veg box could save our planet—and ourselves

Previously seen as having limited appeal, food delivery schemes—often called "veg boxes"—have now exploded in popularity. A Share of The Crop, a veg box supplier which sources produce from southeast England, received a year’s worth of additional orders during a single week in March. Since the coronavirus pandemic took over Britain, three million people have tried such a scheme or bought food from a local farm for the first time, a YouGov survey has found.

As Britons struggle to get to the supermarket, and concerns about stockpiling persist, more farms have pivoted to home delivery services. Unprecedented demand means many suppliers are now having to turn down new customers. While it is still too early to determine the long-term impact, some are optimistic that the rise of veg boxes could spark a shift towards a more equitable model for agriculture.

“My hope is that it's an opportunity to create a fair transition into a more sustainable food system,” said Lauren Simpson, a new farmer based in West Wales.

Supermarkets currently dominate the retail sector, with the “Big Four”—Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Asda and Morrisons—often lobbying together and using their significant bargaining power to push down prices paid to farmers. In 2016, it was estimated that producers received 9p for every pound spent in a  supermarket, compared to 45-60 per cent of the money consumers spent on food in the 1950s. Veg boxes—and comparable schemes supplying fresh fruit, dairy and poultry—offer smallholder farmers and smaller-scale retailers the opportunity to sell directly to members of the public and ensure a fairer price. Simpson claims this alternative means “producers are in control and have direct support from their community,” rather than being beholden to overnight order changes by the Big Four.

Simpson is a member of the Landworkers Alliance, the UK arm of La Via Campesina, the international peasant movement. The alliance advocates for “food sovereignty,” which is defined as “the right of peoples to healthy and culturally appropriate food produced through sustainable methods, and their right to define their own food and agriculture systems.”

The group is lobbying for the government to give grants to new entrants to the industry, citing the need to grow more food in the UK. In light of the pandemic, it is also seeking emergency measures including a support fund for small farms, as well as further assistance to create local supply chains, processing facilities and distribution networks. These measures will aid the country to transition to a shock-resistant food system and reach those in need, they say.

Cost can be a significant barrier to entry in the industry. Simpson also works for the Ecological Land Cooperative (ELC) to address this. The social enterprise helps new farmers access land and planning permission under a “buy to rent” type scheme. “At the moment, there is an increased awareness of our food system, and how fragile that is in terms of supermarket shelves going bare with the just-in-time system.” Simpson believes this has led to an increased public appreciation of local veg box schemes, whose own supply chains have not changed.

She added that the crisis has shone a light on how much injustice there is in the existing agricultural system. Working conditions for migrant labour, for example, have been criticised for low wages, zero-hour contracts and poor quality on-site accommodation. Simpson believes a more localised, agroecological model—one that relies on natural resources—is possible but getting there depends on sufficient political will.

Sinead Fenton is an ELC custodian at Aweside Farm in East Sussex, which has started growing quicker turnaround produce, such as radishes and spring onions, to contribute to local veg box schemes. “We are all quite vocal about the fact that the status quo isn't working” she said.

A revamped agricultural system, Fenton followed, could be more environmentally friendly. She uses regenerative farming practices, which are more diverse and therefore resilient than industrial methods that often rely on monocultures. For Fenton, a more equitable system would involve shortened supply chains between producers and consumers as well as farming that involves “putting back what we've broken and fixing things.”

A representative of the National Farmers' Union of England and Wales previously cautioned that local initiatives may remain a niche market due to consumer concerns about price and convenience.

But Phillippa, a Lincolnshire-based customer to a local veg box scheme, plans to continue her orders after lockdown is lifted. While she acknowledges there is still a cost barrier, Philippa was surprised to discover that the produce from her veg box matched supermarket pricing. She also had been thinking about the importance of supporting local businesses: “I absolutely would want to support farmers to be paid adequately.”

However, even if consumer habits shift, the provision of veg boxes may be at risk. Domestic production is becoming increasingly unsustainable. Between 2005 and 2015, around 30,000, or 14 per cent, of farms in the UK had to close because they were no longer commercially viable. In addition, 53 per cent of vegetables and the total food supply is now produced in the UK, in comparison to a peak of 78 per cent in 1984.

In the past, the government has consistently asserted that improving international trade relationships is the optimal route to food security, rather than increasing national self-sufficiency. But, as Covid-19 shows, the UK is vulnerable to global geopolitical, economic and public health challenges. According to Fenton, this has been a “real wake-up call” for many, but it remains to be seen whether policymakers will enact change as a result.